Ed's photo techniques E-mail address: Edward Nied Jr. Interested in aquatic photography but do not have access to a waterproof housing or underwater camera? Are you a biologist looking to document the daily or weekly development of amphibian eggs? A simple photo aquarium will accomplish these tasks with amazing results.

Design #1: A very basic design consists of two pieces of glass, a section of surgical or automotive tubing and a couple of clamps. This design is extremely useful for field work as it can be disassembled and will easily fit into a backpack or carrying case. To assemble, simply place the tubing between the two pieces of glass at three edges, clamp and fill with water. It may be best to use clear tubing which will allow more light for illumination. A large tube diameter (3/4 inch or better) should be sufficient for photographing small aquatic subjects. Different size tubing can be carried, depending on subject matter to be photographed. 6" X 8", 1/8" thick glass works well, but size and thickness of glass can be up to your discretion.

	Design #2: A more permanent design is made by cementing Styrofoam between two pieces of glass. It eliminates having to assemble the unit every time it’s needed and is still quite portable for field use. Glue Styrofoam strips between two pieces of glass. The thickness of the strips will depend largely on what you intend to photograph in the tank. One to two inches of thickness will work well for most subjects such as small fish, amphibians and egg masses. An optional wooden frame can be added to the outside edges to protect the glass from breakage during transport and handling.

Design #3: This design uses a third piece of glass which enables you to insert aquatic vegetation into the rear section and fish, amphibians or aquatic insects in the front section. This separation prevents the subject from hiding in the background material, saving the photographer time and causing less stress on the subject being photographed. Two sides and the base are made from 1/4" plexiglas with three grooves to accommodate glass. Cement the two outer glass pieces to the plexiglas sides and base. The center glass piece can be inserted into the middle groove to separate subject from background material or can be left out for larger specimens.

Note: If possible, all sides and edges of glass should be ground and beveled to reduce breakage. This procedure will also eliminate the need to carry extra bandages. Plexiglas could be used instead of glass, but will scratch easily and is hard to clean.
• For a partially submerged effect, lower the water level and photograph at or near the waterline. Be sure to wipe away any water droplets on the glass above.
• If flash is used, hold it at an angle to avoid reflections.
• Natural lighting on an overcast day will provide even illumination with less contrast. Experiment with different lighting conditions to see what works best for you.